Sacred places with rich history

Lifestyle – The influence of Irish monks on early Christianity is renowned. But with the Reformation in the 1500s and later the Penal Laws, their monasteries and abbeys fell into disuse. The country is dotted with their ruins and thanks to the work of archaeologists and local communities, many of the buildings have rich stories to tell as JUDY MURPHY learns.

The beautiful Meelick Church, on the banks of the Shannon in East Galway, is billed as the oldest still-functioning Catholic church in Ireland, having been in use since 1414. But any tourist, foreign or Irish, wanting to visit this sacred and historic place would want to be determined – and be blessed with a good sense of direction.

Driving along the narrow roads that lead to Meelick Weir, there isn’t a sign that to indicate this church actually exists. Thankfully, perseverance pays off and having navigated many bends on an increasingly narrow road, there it is – a simple, elegant structure which was once part of a larger Franciscan settlement close to the Shannon.

The last friar left in the mid-1800s, after which the church came under the remit of Clonfert Diocese. Mass is still celebrated in this simple, spiritual place and the Saturday evening ceremony was just about to begin as we departed.

Meelick is part of the Hymany Way walking trail, a 100km path which follows the course of the Shannon. On this occasion, however, we were travelling by car to what was our final destination on an tour of ecclesiastical sites of East Galway and into Offaly.

It was a sunny Saturday and as the rest of the country headed towards the Atlantic beaches, we were almost on our own as we wandered through once-great religious settlements at Clonmacnoise, Clontuskert Abbey, Kilnalahan Abbey (in Abbey of Abbey-Duniry fame) and Meelick. Except for the famed St Ciarán’s site at Clonmacnoise, we met almost nobody in these places. Even Clonmacnoise, which was relatively busy, was far from packed.

This heritage site, on the banks of the Shannon which is accessed via narrow roads between Ballinasloe and Athlone, is a special place. The original monastery, which was founded in the 6th century by St Ciarán, who was its first abbot, is home to the ruins of seven churches, three high crosses, a cathedral, two round towers and more than 700 early Christian burial slabs.

Those early monks knew what they were doing and the monastery’s location, by the Shannon and at an important bridging point in the centre of the country, ensured it became a major centre of learning and religion, where many of Ireland’s finest Celtic manuscripts and art were created.  Artefacts found here include the Clonmacnoise Crozier (now in the National Museum) and the 12th century Book of the Dun Cow.

Today, Clonmacnoise is under the care of the Office of Public Works and, because of Covid, admission is free although it must be pre-booked. But there are no guided tours, which is a great pity. The friendly person we met at the reception area informed us about the Covid-compliant entry route and handed us a sheet of paper which had limited details about the site. After that we were on our own on this medieval monastic settlement. Figuring out what was what involved a lot of guesswork.

For more, read this week’s Connacht Tribune.

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