Hisashi’s raw talent draws in the diners

Date Published: 16-May-2013

 Hisashi Kumagai has become synonymous with sushi in the city but he is actually a classically trained French chef whose career veered far wide of the Japanese delicacy.

He made his name west of the Shannon when he was chef of the luxurious 18th century St Clerans Hotel in Craughwell. He spent a happy decade there until it was closed following the 2007 death of the owner, American TV host, actor and media mogul Mervyn Griffin.

If ever there was an advert for the adage ‘you are what you eat’ it is Hisashi Kimagai.

The 63-year-old has a face that belies age and there is not a pick of fat on him. His own father died at age 92, while his uncle continues to grow his own vegetables at 95.

They say you should never trust a thin chef, but then Hisashi – or chef Kuma as they call in the Radisson Blu Hotel – is offering the Galway public some of the healthiest food for humans – raw, marinated and slightly cooked fish which is low on calories and high in quality protein. There is also a range of vegetables and of course the sushi rice that accompanies the fish.

Japan is the healthiest nation for men and women on earth, a title it also earned a decade earlier in two landmark studies.

Scientists believe sushi is one of the reasons behind this as it contains only 30 per cent fat – this compares to the average diet here which contains 40 per cent fat.

A diet which includes plenty of raw fish can protect smokers from lung cancer. Even though the Japanese smoke at similar rates as Irish people, their rate of lung cancer is only two-thirds as high.

The fish most commonly on the menu of Raw: Sushi in the Sky at the Radisson Blu is salmon, mackerel, tuna and crab, which are low in unhealthy saturated fats, but high in omega-3 fatty acids, fats which are associated with improving blood cholesterol levels and lowering blood pressure. Mackerel also contain a lot of vitamin E. Nori used to wrap some of the sushi rolls is a seaweed rich in magnesium, calcium, folic acid, iron, iodine and various antioxidant compounds.

He also uses halibut, john dory, turbot, brill, sword fish, red mullet, red snapper, scallops and prawns.

Sushi is not normally associated with a West of Ireland palate. But a year after opening on the fourth floor of the Radisson Blu, he is finding there are a growing number of locals who have taken to the cuisine.

Asians who have settled here are particular fans. Many of the once-off customers are guests at the hotel and the many visiting Americans are delighted to find a sushi restaurant on site.

“We have quite a few families with children. In fact 75% of our customers are ladies because it’s very healthy food. In the beginning I was curious about how much business we can have for sushi because it’s all cold, only the miso soup is hot. So while we are limited in what we do, we are doing good,” he explains.

Among his signature dishes is yellow fin tataki – seared tuna fillet marinated with sake, soy sauce and vinegar, served with scallion, garlic, grated daikon and sakura mix. The chef’s platter features six pieces of nigiri and maki sushi, with a choice of swordfish, salmon belly, prawn, tuna, barbecued eel, sea bass, kappa, Kanpyo, umeboshi.

The restaurant affords fabulous views over Lough Atalia and has a modern, clean, intimate feel.

Once a month he leads master classes in the art of sushi making which teaches participants where to buy the freshest fish, how to prepare sushi rolls and to make the complex sauces and marinades.

For more, read this week’s Galway City Tribune.